feast magazine article

feast magazine, may 2014: tomme, rosemary + walnut mini-scones.

tomme, rosemary + walnut mini scones.

Feast time! This month’s edition is all about wine; specifically wine made right here in Missouri. Outsiders: did you know we were in wine country? We are, and although I know the vast amount of you who read my wee blog aren’t in St. Louis, there are lots of things you’ll enjoy, such as:

An absolutely stellar menu from Jenny Cleveland of Cleveland-Heath to pair with some fine Missouri wines for spring. For those of you not local, check out the recipes for Shaved Spring Vegetable Salad, Soft Shell Crab Panzanella, Rack of Spring Lam with Morels and Madeira, and Polenta Cake with Olive Oil Ice Cream (my pick of the bunch); they all look incredible, and all of which can be found in the online issue of the magazine.

There’s this strawberry salad with maple-fig dressing which looks gorgeous: there’s even dandelions in it! Who knew you could just eat dandelions? Not this girl, but then again, Mr. Table sees dandelions as his mortal enemy in the spring and summer, and I just grew up using them for flower necklaces.

You like icewine? Me too. And there’s this icewine sabayon recipe which looks divine, and as if that weren’t enough, it’s paired with pistachio shortbread. Sold.

tomme, rosemary + walnut mini scones.

And then there’s me with my (literally) small recipe using Tomme cheese from Marcoot Jersey Creamery, a farm-fed creamery in Greenville, IL; just about an hour away. Trying to find a weird ingredient having to do with grapes or wine proved troublesome: grapes simply aren’t weird, and the products made from them, like grapeseed oil, don’t need that much demystification. So what goes best with wine? Cheese, people. Especially this one: it explodes with flavor, and it’s crumbly, dry texture would go wonderfully with all sorts of wines (but since I’m not a sommelier, I’ll let you pick based on my description.)

The flavor: the ladies at Marcoot describe it as having a parmesan/aged cheddar feel to it, and I very much agree, although I taste notes of asiago and gorgonzola in it too, although it’s subtle. It’s intensely salty, which is awesome in a cheese, because it really does make you want to put it together with other things. It works well on a plate with walnuts, dates, maybe some strawberries, definitely figs; anything with a good amount of sweetness to it. It’s wonderful on burgers – like insanely good, especially if you’re like me and love grilled mushrooms and onions on your burgers also), and pairs as nicely with coffee as it does wine. Although I saved some for when I wrote this up, and I’m eating it right now, and to be quite honest, it’s great on its own. It needs nothing.

tomme, rosemary + walnut mini scones.

The texture: so, so crumbly. It almost has a grit to it, and crumbles into big, sexy chunks when you stick a knife in it. It grates very well also. If you left a chunk of parmesan unwrapped in your fridge for a few days, this is how dry it would be. Again, that’s a plus, both because of how pleasant it is when left alone, and also how fun it is to cook with.

So what I ended up doing with this was a mini-scone. Scones are often guilty (at least in my opinion) of not having as much flavor as they should throughout. Sure, there’s the little pops of berry in the sweet ones, or the crunch of nuts, the hint of herbs, but somehow all that flour and butter takes over, and it’s like you’re digging to get to the flavors. Not so with these: the Tomme is magical here, and along with the rosemary, really infuses these things with tons of flavor in each and every bite. The walnuts add a nice crunch throughout, and a nice background flavor since the rosemary and Tomme are super assertive. They’re small, which makes them less overwhelming than your average scone, and perfect to serve alongside big salads, grilled meats, or hey, maybe as a little pre-dinner wine snack.

tomme, rosemary + walnut mini scones.

And we didn’t even talk about what’s happening on top, which is maybe the most special thing about Tomme: the way it toasts. Tomme doesn’t “melt” like other cheeses would on top of these: rather, it forms a streusel of cheesy goodness, and it’s the best part of these scones. Another reason why miniature is great here: better streusel-to-baked good ratio.

So if you’re local and you have access to Marcoot’s Tomme cheese (check their website for availability, or give them a call), I strongly suggest you get some whether you make these scones or not; this cheese is not to be missed. If you’re not local, Marcoot does ship cheese; I’ll direct you to their website again for that. If you’d like to recreate these in the best way possible without Marcoot’s lovely Tomme variety, I’d use 4 ounces aged white cheddar to 2 ounces good-quality aged parmesan, with parmesan grated on top. It’s not going to be exactly the same, and you won’t get that true streusel feel unless you use this cheese, but it will still be delicious.

For my Tomme, rosemary + walnut mini scones recipe, head right over here. To flip through the magazine, head over to Feast to view the online edition, and remember: you can always chill out for a half-hour and check out Feast TV’s May edition, which is basically the magazine delivered right to your brain.

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  • Reply Deb May 6, 2014 at 10:04 am

    I’m a big fan of scones, both sweet and savory. These little gems are very appealing! Currently dreaming of a glass of local wine with a just baked scone and perhaps a slather of fig and onion jam, divine!

    • Reply shannon May 8, 2014 at 7:32 am

      Well now I’M dreaming of a glass of local wine and a fresh-baked scone, Deb! and it’s only 8:30 in the morning, so maybe i have to wait a few hours. 🙂

  • Reply movita beaucoup May 6, 2014 at 11:02 am

    effie-the-cat just jumped up on the table specifically to sniff your first photo of cheese. Proving, once again, that your blog is for those with sophisticated tastes.

    • Reply shannon May 8, 2014 at 7:32 am

      Effie has the most sophisticated palate i know. She would love this cheese.

  • Reply natalie @ wee eats May 6, 2014 at 11:31 am

    These scones look like they are to DIE for! I wonder if I could find Tomme around here (or how much it would cost me to acquire some from across the country) because I seriously need these scones in my life.

    • Reply shannon May 8, 2014 at 7:31 am

      All these comments are making me wistful for the Tomme: i have a teeny bit left in the fridge, and i need to get more, just so i know i have it, because it’s that delicious. I know Marcoot ships, and they’re very easy to talk to on the phone about it. I know sometimes shipping isn’t cheap, but this cheese is pretty inexpensive (it’s one of those that costs $938 a pound at all), so, worth it. just think of all the money you save NOT shipping expensive cheese, right?

  • Reply Jennie @themessybakerblog May 6, 2014 at 11:49 am

    I’m not known to turn down cheese; I’m more likely known for hovering over the cheese platter while shooing approaching guests away. Selfish, is right! These scones sound wonderful. I love that you added cheese to the top, and that Tomme sounds magnificent. I happen to adore big sexy chunks of cheese–swoon!

    • Reply shannon May 8, 2014 at 7:29 am

      thanks, jennie! I know you don’t shy away from a cheese plate, for sure. i don’t turn down cheese either, and i always like trying new ones, and this one did NOT disappoint. Of course i was going to add cheese to the top, silly. 🙂

  • Reply elizabeth May 6, 2014 at 12:00 pm

    I’ll have to see if my beloved Fairway carries this already (I know they carry some Tommes, but I wouldn’t be able to name where they were from if you paid me a thousand dollars) because I would also totally use these to make madeleines.

    And oh, that icewine sabayon is giving me ideas I probably shouldn’t have, like shooting the finished product out of my whipped cream siphon.

    • Reply shannon May 8, 2014 at 7:27 am

      Ooooh, madeleines with this would be SUPERB, Elizabeth…now i’m all distracted. 🙂 In my research for the article, i discovered that most Tomme cheeses taste very similar to Emmenthaler or Gruyere; Marcoot’s has a more aged cheddary/parm flavor, so although all Tomme cheese goes through the same aging process, the profiles may be slightly different. I need to get a standard tomme to compare and contrast.

      i know, right? i thought of you when i saw that, due to your adventures with new kitchen gadget.

  • Reply Ashley May 6, 2014 at 12:04 pm

    big sexy chunks? a toasted streusel of cheesy goodness? miniature? perfect crust-to-baked good ratio? Lady, you hit every winning point for me. I must have now. Maybe Murray’s cheese shops have it? I’m also thoroughly excited about a savory scone!

    • Reply shannon May 8, 2014 at 7:24 am

      ALL THE YES, Ashley. And you know, i’m not sure how far Marcoot’s distribution is, but I know we carry cheeses from all around the region in our cheese shops, and you’re not that far away, so they may have it (or may be able to get it in for you.) Marcoot is pretty well known in MO and IL, so it’s very possible. I hope you can grab some! and you could always call the girls at Marcoot, and i’m sure they would send you some: they’re super nice and they do ship things regularly, i believe.

  • Reply Sarah @ The Cook's Life May 6, 2014 at 5:06 pm

    I love that crunch in a good aged cheese. And a flavor between aged Cheddar, Parmesan and Asiago? I am so there! I am going to have to find me some Marcoot Creamery Tomme cheese. I am so glad I live in St. Louis!

    I have to be honest, I’m not sure any of that cheese will make it into a scone (it sounds too good not to just eat), but I do happen to have good aged Cheddar and the real deal wedge of Parmigiano-Reggiano. I usually pass right by savory scone recipes, but this one with cheese in it and on it, and rosemary and black pepper. I am so there. (Maybe with pecans instead of walnuts, I just can’t get behind walnuts.) Oh, and it’s a cream scone. I am love with those lately – so easy and they go together in minutes. Thanks for the new cheese recommendation and the killer recipe!

    • Reply shannon May 8, 2014 at 7:22 am

      oh you have to try the Tomme then! We should make a cheese date and meet up at Maplewood Farmers’ Market some time, b/c they bring it and all the other ones up with them. Soooo much flavor: evidently they haven’t had it in stores for months b/c they sold out back in December, and once you taste it, you won’t wonder why.

      if you make these, pecans would be perfectly acceptable: i sort of always pair rosemary and walnut in my head? so that’s why the pairing here…it’s a natural one for me, but i completely understand how people are walnut-averse. AND yes, it’s a cream scone, aka mostly the only sort i love; if i ever do make scones for the blog (besides this one), it’s most likely a cream-based one. It’s also the type i tend not to screw up, so there’s that also.

  • Reply John@Kitchen Riffs May 6, 2014 at 7:37 pm

    I did know we were in wine country! Although I’m not that wild about many Missouri wines. Little known fact: when France experienced wine blight in the 19th century (I think that’s when it was — too lazy to go look it up!), they used some Missouri grape root stock to help revive their vineyards. Anyway, I have the new edition of Feast but haven’t even cracked the cover yet (I will, I will!). Tomme is new to me. Scones aren’t of course, but these look delish. Thanks!

    • Reply shannon May 8, 2014 at 7:16 am

      i totally knew you knew that! 🙂 i had no idea about that little grape root factoid, but now i do. I haven’t probably explored missouri wines as much as i should: i only drink occasionally, and i usually pick wines i’ve had some experience with…wine may be the one area in which i don’t automatically want to try something new.
      As for the Tomme, you are one of the few who can head right out and get some, so if you like drier, salty cheese, definitely give it a try. I believe they carry it at Local Harvest, Straubs, etc. and i know they bring it up when they have it to the Maplewood/Schlafly farmers’ market.

  • Reply Monica May 7, 2014 at 1:52 pm

    These savory scones sound really delicious, Shannon. I love the sound of this tomme cheese and how it forms that streusel-like topping on your scones. And walnuts – everything is better with nuts!

    • Reply shannon May 8, 2014 at 7:10 am

      i agree with you so much about the nuts, monica! especially walnuts and pecans…and obviously, almonds. i know some feel differently, and i get that too, but i like them. 🙂

  • Reply Abbe@This is How I Cook May 8, 2014 at 9:32 am

    I want tomme. I need tomme. Give me a sexy chunk! Jeez, Shannon. Are you trying to kill those that don’t live your way? This tomme sounds fabulous!

    • Reply shannon May 20, 2014 at 8:59 am

      Abbe, it’s so good! i wish there was a way that I could locate something which tasted exactly like this in your neck of the woods and then send you directly to it! I have a tiny bit left in my fridge still and it’s like i want to save it forever (or at least until i go out and track down some more.). it’s safe to say i want it to be my new, more exciting parmesan.

  • Reply Faygie May 9, 2014 at 7:51 pm

    I’ve never made scones. I keep saying that I will “one of these days”, but it hasn’t happened yet (it seems I say that about a lot of things that never seem to happen…). But if I ever DO get around to making them, I’m definitely going to have to start with these. They look so insanely good!!

    • Reply shannon May 20, 2014 at 9:01 am

      Scones were never super high on my to-do list either: honestly, probably b/c the ones i found in pro bakeries were ALWAYS better than home-baked ones (at least the ones that came out of this home). 🙂 If you do get around to making a batch, i think you’ll love these just based on flavors i know you love, like rosemary and walnut, etc. they’re SUPER savory and very peppy in terms of flavor. and it’s a cream scone base, which for me, results in an overall better scone (sweet OR savory).

  • Reply Amy @ Elephant Eats May 13, 2014 at 1:01 pm

    Cheese in scones is my favorite way to make them. It makes them moister (since they tend to be a little dry and crumbly) and salty…and cheesy!!! These looks so yummy. I’m gonna have to go check out those other recipes too.

  • Reply shannon May 20, 2014 at 9:13 am

    me too: b/c trying to cram fresh fruit in scones really bites. 🙂 so cheese is the way to go for sure to liven things up a bit and to make them a little less dry, for sure. go have a look! i love the summer months in Feast b/c the recipes are so quintessentially summer and perfect.

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